Who are you between the night and the morning? That’s what Kiko Kostadinov’s womenswear designers, Laura and Deanna Fanning, wanted to uncover on the London-based brand’s Fall/Winter 2025 runway in Paris on Tuesday. There, the dynamic twin-sister duo flaunted the infectiousness of their feminine design ethos (which echoes that of Kostadinov’s cult-corralling menswear) with a line inspired by the rakish sensation of learning a new city.
“We are looking at the life of Vali Myers (b. 1930, d. 2003), a free-spirited Australian dancer who moved among Paris’ most bohemian spaces in the 1950s,” the designers explained in their show notes. “Staying up all night, undressing, drinking champagne and galavanting bravely through the city as the sun rises, just a topcoat thrown over a slip.”
Myers’s free-willed spontaneity informed the collection’s composition: textiles, like knitted mohair, moleskin, and alpaca, were rough and punk, while striped knit gloves and bright footwear, including feathered leather pumps and paisley thigh-high boots, frequently glued eyes for their blissful randomness.
Tradition still kept parts of the range in order, with classic womenswear underpinnings complementing the feminine form. Among them, pointed brassieres and tough crinolines sculpted dramatic hips, while soft darts and rigid peplums contoured their wearers’ waists.
But it wouldn’t be a Kostadinov special without some real subversion. Across the line, the Fanning sisters recontextualized typical menswear formals for the woman’s wardrobe, citing the “thrifted layering of Teddy Girls and tomboys.” That meant pastel striped shirts were injected with drawstring waists, ties turned into wrapped collars, and rope belts put a girly flair on boyish pinstripe blazers. Some looks were finished with a new Asics collaboration—a split-toe sneaker with a curvaceous pattern—for an extra punch of self-assuredness.
“We are thinking of women taking up their bodies, being sexual and monumental, strong-minded and soft. Find a path for oneself in the in-between of opposites, the way only a woman can,” the Fannings concluded. For the Kiko woman, the limit does not exist.
See Kiko Kostadinov’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection in the gallery above, and stay tuned to Hypebeast for more Paris Fashion Week coverage.
The post Kiko Kostadinov FW25 Lives With Free Will appeared first on Hypebeast.
