As a beauty writer, one of the most common questions I get from those in my network is whether red light therapy devices and LED masks—like the Omnilux Contour or Dr. Dennis Gross DRx SpectraLite FaceWare Pro—actually work. I get it—these buzzy beauty gadgets don’t come cheap, not to mention one of these at-home masks are yet another relatively time-consuming thing to add to your skin care routine.
You’ve probably seen the robot-like at-home devices on social media being touted as anti-aging miracle-workers for all skin types. Some are made of flexible silicone, while others are made of more structured plastic. Both types of red light masks are skin care devices built with LEDs (light-emitting diodes) that emit specific wavelengths of light, typically between 620-750nm for red light and 760nm to 1400nm for near-infrared light to stimulate cellular activity. Purported benefits include everything from overall skin tone and texture improvements to specific skin concerns like wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, acne, and even wound healing.
The catch? The vast majority of these LED devices cost at least a few hundred dollars—some as much as a thousand dollars or more.
So, do at-home red light masks actually work?
Though it recently garnered the attention of the masses, LED light therapy, sometimes referred to as RLT or low-energy red/near-infrared light, has been used for decades. In fact, NASA used red light to boost plant growth in space in the 1990s and the scientists working with the lights found that abrasions on their hands seemed to heal faster, leading to additional NASA-funded studies on the medical benefits of light therapy.
Years later, there’s much more clinical trial evidence to support red light’s safety and efficacy in skin rejuvenation, says Shoshana Marmon, MD, PhD, FAAD, assistant professor of Dermatology at New York Medical College. It has been studied extensively for its anti-inflammatory properties and ability to treat many skin conditions including pre-cancer and chronic photodamage. It’s also been shown to boost collagen and elastin production.
Omnilux Contour Face
Omnilux
Dr. Dennis Gross DRx SpectraLite FaceWare Pro
Amazon
Nordstrom
Sephora
What are the primary benefits of red light masks?
Decelerated skin aging
The anti-inflammatory properties of red light is particularly important, because it’s a main cause of all skin aging, says Corey L. Hartman, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Skin Wellness Dermatology in Birmingham, Alabama. A split-face, randomized clinical trial found a 30% reduction in periocular wrinkles (commonly known as “crow’s feet”) but no improvement in skin hydration and elasticity. In another study, researchers found evidence that red light therapy also stimulates collagen production, which reduces fine lines and wrinkles.
Improved acne
In an article published in the Journal of the American Medical Association, data showed improvement in acne bumps after 12 weeks of red-light therapy. Some red light therapy masks are also equipped with other types of LED lights, the most popular of which is blue light therapy (typically around 405-420nm)—a light therapy that has significant data supporting its efficacy in treating inflammatory acne breakouts.
Reduced rosacea and eczema
“By reducing inflammation, red light therapy can help to reduce the redness associated with rosacea,” says Roger Kapoor, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and Senior VP at Beloit Memorial Hospital. It’s these same anti-inflammatory benefits that may also help with other skin conditions, including eczema, says Dr. Hartman.
Faster wound healing
In one study, red light therapy activated cell regeneration in a wound healing laboratory model, suggesting it could help accelerate tissue repair and wound healing, says Dr. Kapoor.
Diminished hyperpigmentation
“Since red light therapy reduces inflammation, it may help reduce hyperpigmentation associated with acne by stimulating cellular turnover that can help fade dark spots over time,” says Dr. Kapoor, noting that data is limited on red light therapy and its impact on hyperpigmentation and it’s still a subject of ongoing research.
If your goal is reduced hyperpigmentation, it’s best to talk to your derm first, because red light therapy can actually worsen conditions like melasma, says Shereene Idriss, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Idriss Dermatology in NYC. If you have melasma, green light therapy may be the better option. “Green light therapy (approximately 520-525nm) effectively addresses hyperpigmentation by targeting melanin production and breaking down existing pigmentation in the skin,” she says. “Additionally, green light has a calming effect, reducing redness and inflammation that can contribute to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.”
There is one small caveat though…
While there is promising data on red light therapy’s skin care benefits, it’s important to note that many of the studies have limitations like small patient cohorts and industry funding, says Dr. Marmon, suggesting more well-designed, independent clinical trials are needed to establish the true therapeutic benefits of red light therapy.
How to get the best results from a red light mask
Consistency is key, says Dr. Marmon. “Most masks are typically used two to five times per week, depending on the manufacturer’s instructions,” she says. And results don’t happen overnight. “Users tend to notice improvements within four to six weeks but results can vary,” she adds.
When purchasing a device, look for a LED light therapy mask that will fit your lifestyle. There are full face masks, there are wands (like the editor-loved Solawave), and there are spot treatments. All of these LED treatments can be effective with little to no side effects, but no device is going to work well without consistency, so it’s important to hone in on one you’ll actually use.
Light therapy masks are also most effective when they sit flush against clean, dry skin. This ensures the light will be thoroughly absorbed by the skin. Some people find flexible masks (like the HigherDose, our shopping editor’s favorite) are more adjustable for a more customized fit.
At the end of the day, it’s important to remember that an LED face mask won’t solve all of your skin care woes or rewind the clock, but derms tell Glamour it is a worthy addition to a solid skin care routine. Results are modest and gradual, says Viktoryia Kazlosukaya, MD, PhD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. Set realistic expectations—LED masks are not a substitute for professional skin care, cosmetic procedures performed in a board-certified dermatologist’s office, or prescription skin care products, including creams and topicals, she says. They are best viewed as a supplementary tool in a broader skin care routine.
The post Do Red Light Masks Work? This Is What Dermatologists Say appeared first on Glamour.
