After five years off the CFDA calendar, Christopher John Rogers has made his triumphant return to the New York Fashion Week runway. Showcased in a star-studded spectacle set in the Brooklyn Fish Transfer building at the Brooklyn Navy Yard, “Collection 015: Exhale” exemplifies the label’s foundational ethos and the colorful energy at its core, reinventing the rainbow once again in a presentation that left all hundreds of attendees absolutely captivated.
Per the show notes, “Exhale” marks “an expression of [the brand’s] deepest gratitude to [their] customers, partners, and family of squirrels who have supported [them] since [their] beginnings as an independent American brand.” Drawing from the artwork of Angela de la Cruz and Hélio Oiticica – two artists whose “reluctance to constraints” greatly shaped CJR’s career and design eye – “Exhale” sees CJR push his reinterpretations of the rainbow to the next level, with each garment evoking authenticity and free creative expression.
“In a time when identity and personhood are globally challenged, the pursuit of one’s own happiness and autonomy can feel like a daunting but essential endeavor. ‘Collection 015’ embodies this spirit of defiance and individuality by offering up delectable, idiosyncratic inventions that seamlessly integrate into a wardrobe, representing a confident step forward for our ready-to-wear.”
“Exhale” literally takes us through the rainbow, starting off with a lineup of red and orange-accented pieces followed by green and yellow and wrapping up with some striking multicolored gowns, sets and layered pairings. Textiles span matte cotton piques and twill alongside wool tailoring, rich satins and silk grosgrain.
While reds and greens ultimately dominate the rainbow-dipped delivery, the 38-look “Exhale” also sees the designer drop off some more toned-down gowns and a selection of black garments. Amidst fringed lime green oxford shirts and color-blocked coats come some all-black gowns and suiting options. Color wasn’t left out completely, however, with the all-black corset gown complete with subtle rainbow stitching on the torso and the sleek black suit finished off with red detailing. The last look of the show was possibly the most minimalistic of the entire showcase: a black trenchcoat.
“We haven’t been immune to the recent challenges of the industry and are grateful as a brand to be here now presenting this body of work,” the show notes close out. “‘Exhale’ is a celebration of our roots — expressive occasionwear imbricated with declarative, playful daywear — and a continued effort to give space for our fantasies to flourish.”
Explore Christopher John Rogers Fall 2025 “Collection 015: Exhale” in the runway images above and stay tuned to Hypebeast for continuing New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2025 coverage.
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