For SS25 Studio Nicholson draws from varied sources of inspiration from new materials to vintage silhouettes, along with references to the local tradespeople and community characters who drive our daily interactions.
Founder and creative director Nick Wakeman uses succinct statements to illustrate the diverse points of reference saying “Noisy Japanese Cotton Nylon. A certain ecclesiastical mood. UPS driver’s getups. A typewriter cotton. 80’s and 90’s American sportswear. Greengrocer jackets. Bonded leather,” in a foreword to the lookbook.
Even with the abundant source material, Studio Nicholson distills these ideas into clean, contemporary garments with an architectural flare and meticulous attention to fabrics. On the materials, Wakeman said, “As always, it began with excitement over fabrics. Along the way, various subplots emerged which have given way to a collection that features a lot of long silhouettes, a kind of softness, and a handful of strong yet steady wardrobe archetypes.”
White, black, and navy trousers are crafted with voluminous legs and matching fabric belts, while shorts are constructed with extra-deep pleats and extend below the knees. Outerwear pieces include a beige overcoat, a beige work jacket, and a navy and black leather varsity jacket — each refined with minimal hardware and embellishments, allowing the eye to focus on the materiality. The varsity jacket is styled with classic blue jeans and a white dress shirt, recalling Wakeman’s reference to “80’s and 90’s American sportswear.”
Longer silhouettes in the women’s line like the the Reva and Enna dresses draw from ecclesiastical aesthetics. Wakeman mentions an old photo of nuns that was a central point of inspiration, “The details of the construction of their clothing and its kind of severity. An image by Charles Traub of three nuns window shopping in Rome in the 80’s in off-white habits and black headscarves I found myself a bit obsessed by.”
In menswear, slight interventions such as off-center collars and a belted fastening detail in the women’s Silas jacket balance the everyday themes with forward-thinking touches.
Studio Nicholson’s SS25 collection is available now at the brand’s web store and select retailers.
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