Kiko Kostadinov’s Fall 2025 collection marked a shift in the London-based, Bulgarian designer’s style dialect: out was his quintessential minimalism, and in was a newfound sense of rawness—one defined by roomier, textured and uneven garments.
Asymmetry underpinned the collection, with coats, tops and trousers cut intentionally off-kilter, and several composite silhouettes created the illusion of layering. Elsewhere, classic military garb from Hungary and Bulgaria informed the strictness in the line’s stiffer, formal constructions, while Kon Trubkovich’s paintings galvanized Kostadinov’s textile manipulations and bright orange, yellow and cerulean color story.
Coin and trinket-inspired illustrations were embroidered on coats with extreme subtlety, while check patterns more boldly claimed trousers with apron-like draping. Big leather belts turned heads over extra-long shirting and massive scarves; black leather gloves appeared monstrous under the sleeves of heavy knits, and crossbody bags became staples with dyed pony hair. On foot, models debuted a new Asics collaboration, which nodded to the Japanese sports label’s tabi marathon shoes from the 1950s.
Despite the sartorial shift, Kostadinov’s menswear remained modest; people are particularly drawn to his work for its unpretentious nature, after all. His show notes opened with a quote from the 1988 black-and-white Hungarian film Damnation that explained the phenomenon quite well: “I cling to nothing, but everything clings to me.”
See Kiko Kostadinov‘s Fall/Winter 2025 collection in the gallery above, and stay tuned to Hypebeast for more Paris Fashion Week coverage.
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