In Paris on Thursday, Issey Miyake’s Fall 2025 menswear show examined the intimate relationship between the human body and cloth. The collection was a product of IM MEN, the brand’s menswear arm that launched in 2021, with a design team consisting of Yuki Itakura, Sen Kawahara and Nobutaka Kobayashi. Now exiting its infancy, the sub-label commanded Le Réfectoire des Cordeliers, a former monastery built in the early 16th century, with a design manifesto that was confidently its own — as part of the French fashion capital’s calendar for the first time.
On a stark white runway, models swerved between massive square panel structures that slowly rotated in place, as if imbued with life and gazing at the collection before them. The sleek machines were inspired by a simple piece of cloth, too. “When worn, [the cloth] becomes a sculpture, fusing traditional craftsmanship techniques and sophisticated modern technology,” explained the Japanese artist behind the spectacle, Tokujin Yoshioka.
His work set the stage for the transcendent line’s march, which was broken up into several sub-categories organized by textile and shape. The imprint’s “Fly” line employed the often-trimmed selvage to produce coats that could be worn upside down and sideways, depending on how the buttons were attached. The “Flat Drape” section, meanwhile, was all about movement, with square shirts, coats and trousers bouncing and waving to models’ steps, and the “Wall” series introduced recycled polyester outerwear with inside-out design details and transformative hoods.
Elsewhere, IM’s “Heron” voluminous coats were constructed with fray-free Ultrasuede; the brand’s “Switch” coats and trousers tapped 100% plant-based nylon fiber, which was made from castor and corn, and the “Metallic Ultra Boa” division utilized artificial sheepskin and foil printing to pump angular outerwear with an otherworldly edge.
Overall, Issey’s cloth was transformed into sharp, complementary and textural garments meant to be worn in day-to-day life — and in the final sequence, caped models in strictly monochromatic ensembles were sprinting out the door to go live in them.
See Issey Miyake’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection in the gallery above, and stay tuned to Hypebeast for more Paris Fashion Week coverage.
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