To the screeches and strums of Berlin composer Aase Nielsen’s stormy musical arrangement, Magliano’s Fall/Winter 2025 show entranced Milan Fashion Week’s attention inside a foggy, mysterious gym. The runway, littered with sand, mimicked the Adriatic Riviera, or the popular beach resort district where designer Luca Magliano was raised. It was dark, and the energy was tense, a sense of debauchery around the bend, much like a stroll through the fashioner’s quieter waterfront hometown in the wintertime.
“Sea, night, winter: a legendary threesome,” Magliano called the spectacle, “Those who find themselves there are in search of a violent minute.”
There was an intentionally messed-up factor — an “inside-outness,” if you will — to Magliano’s design codes that articulated his muse’s desired chaos. Handbags, designed in collaboration with Milan bag-maker Medea, were casually draped in underwear, and minimal cotton-ribbed jackets were buttoned incorrectly, scrunching the silhouette across the torso haphazardly. Undergarments peeked out from below skirts; belts tangled among each other across models’ waists; T-shirts knotted around coats, and tight leg-warming layers fought for the foreground with technical, hole-punched trousers.
The line also introduced “Nudo By Magliano,” the designer’s new sub-label focused on reimagining the basics. “A precious refuge from the chaos around,” he called the tag’s debut, which consisted of fleece and cotton outerwear garments ideal for nocturnal exploring.
Amidst the collection’s turbulence, Magliano found the light in knitwear adorned with Swarovski crystals, reflections of the moon’s twinkle. Still, though, his take on the gleam remained gloomy: “Brilliance is a dusty and worn-out matter.”
See Magliano’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection in the gallery above, and stay tuned to Hypebeast for more Milan Fashion Week coverage.
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