Making its debut this Spring/Summer 2025, XS.SML is a Japanese clothing label founded by Hikaru Watanabe, a veteran patternmaker who has previously worked for N. HOOLYWOOD for the last 10 years.
With an Instagram bio that reads, “Is beauty just a question of looks, or could there be more to it than meets the eye?” the brand leaves an equal air of mystery about its direction and philosophy. XS.SML appears to have based its name on the sizing, but looking back on Watanabe’s personal Instagram, the founder’s interest in Rem Koolhaas and Bruce Mau’s book S,M,L,XL – a 1,376-page-long documentation of works by Koolhaas’ Dutch firm for Metropolitan Architecture (O.M.A.) – is another possible inspiration for the label’s name.
On a another Instagram post by XS.SML, the brand posted an photos showing four different clothing labels. Each label have omitted a different letter form the brand name, hinting at the use of one label to indicate both the brand’s name as well as its garment’s size.
XS.SML’s SS25 features a lineup of breezy and technical styles, spanning short-sleeve shirts, button-ups, wide-legged pants, shorts and hooded windbreakers. Rendered in an earthy palette, the garments arrive in a mix of khaki, army green, taupe, ocher alongside black and charcoal gray. A noticeable design detail that permeates through the range is the use of ruching, which creates a slightly draped and crinkled effect.
Preview some of the pieces from XS.SML’s SS25 collection in the gallery above. Keep an eye out for release updates via the brand’s social media.
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