Opening
Santi
The chef Michael White’s influence remained on several restaurants for years after he left New York to pursue opportunities in Florida, the Bahamas and elsewhere with his BBianco Hospitality Group. Now he’s back in the same location as Alto, his former flagship. Italy is his focus in a space with several dining areas done in neutral tones. Pastas like busiate with saffron and uni, and garganelli with Nantucket bay scallops; crudos, including one with Montauk red shrimp; and plates of pan-roasted squab, monkfish with speck, and a veal chop that pays homage to his years at San Domenico, in Italy, highlight the menu. (Opens Thursday)
Chez Fifi
Occupying an Upper East Side townhouse, this French restaurant is no casual bistro. The intimate dining room, finished in polished mahogany, mirrors and drapery, has an à la carte menu by the executive chef Zack Zeidman, who worked with Ignacio Mattos. Inspired by Paris, he also offers tastes of Spain. Escargots, foie gras terrine and Basque txangurro baked crab are starter options to follow with Dover sole à la plancha, roast chicken or filet mignon au poivre. The second floor lounge, Salon de Fifi, is for small bites and drinks. The restaurateurs and brothers Joshua and David Foulquier, a chef who also works on the menu, who are honoring their mother with this restaurant. They also own the Michelin two-star Sushi Noz nearby.
Upon the Palace
This elaborate restaurant is inspired by Epang Palace, a Qin Dynasty behemoth that was started in 212 B.C.E. near Xian, never finished, destroyed, rebuilt in the 20th century and destroyed again. Though more modest in size, with 4,200 square feet on two floors and 180 seats, Upon the Palace also strives for imperial opulence. The executive chef, Xueliang Yu, brings a contemporary outlook to his extensive menu of Chinese dishes with king salmon tartare; whole lobster with ginger and scallions; scallops with foie gras; and sushi, along with a routine list of dim sum, dan dan noodles, beef with broccoli, and sweet and sour pork.
Fleur
Old Shanghai drives the décor here, and a mix of old and new governs the food from the executive chef, Qingkui Feng, who comes from a family of that city’s chefs. Soup dumplings, braised pork belly and Shanghai style noodles are to be expected, but less common are stir-fried shredded eel, crispy anchovies and Shanghai smoked fish. Vintage posters cover the walls and crystal chandeliers hang from the ceiling. Hupo, a Sichuan spot in Long Island City, has the same owners.
The Residence of Mr. Moto
Like the Office of Mr. Moto in the East Village, this sibling also honors a 19th century fictional traveler who went to Japan. Vintage artifacts decorate the various dining areas and butler bells are poised to summon waiters. The executive chef and partner, Tomo Kubo, who is also responsible for the Office and Tabe Tomo among others, is working with the chef Ryan Nitzkowski to serve kaisen-don, a seafood bowl that has a 60-hour broth chaser that’s made like an exquisite corpse. Other bowls, sushi, chawanmushi, miso cod and bonito tataki are also options; there’s a varied array of drinks.
Feste
At the Standard, East Village, this year’s winter pop-up has an Italian theme, appropriate since the colors of Italy and Christmas are identical. The chef Angie Bazan has a Sicilian background and it flavors her food. Italian ornaments like sculpted garlic cloves hang on the tree until New Year’s Eve, and the restaurant will be open through February 15.
Looking Ahead
A Violent Eggnog History
Who but Jennifer Voigtschild, the Command Historian of the United States Military Academy, West Point, and a graduate of the Academy, could be more qualified to discuss a Christmas season incident nearly 100 years ago involving smuggled booze and a riot? A Zoom presentation by the Culinary Historians of New York will include a demonstration of mixing eggnog.
Sham Tseng Roast Goose
Tony Li, the owner of YongChuan, new to the Lower East Side, is giving a taste of China to Dickens. Roasted goose will be the centerpiece for celebratory four-course dinners on Christmas Eve, Christmas Day and New Year’s Eve, $85 per person. The goose will be done as in Hong Kong, which has an entire neighborhood specializing in roast or charcoal-grilled goose. It is also served at lunch or dinner daily; a quarter goose is $48, half is $96.
Michelin
New York, Washington, D.C., Chicago
The Michelin Guides revealed the 2024 restaurant rankings for these cities Monday night at Glasshouse in Hell’s Kitchen. Jungsik New York, a Korean restaurant in Tribeca, was awarded three stars, the top, up from two last year, bringing the New York total to five restaurants with three stars. César and Sushi So were added to New York’s two-star list, as was Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare, which had a three-star ranking before a chef change. New one-stars are Joo Ok, Nōksu, Shota Omakase and Ying Tao. La Bastide by Andrea Calstier in North Salem, N.Y., was also awarded a star. Tina Vaughn of Eulalie won for outstanding service. In Washington, Mita and Omakase at Barrack’s Row were one-star additions, as was Cariño in Chicago.
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