I’ve always been drawn to the cultures on both sides of the Mediterranean Sea.
The diverse groups have cultural, historical, culinary, economic, and political ties dating back thousands of years. Plus, the area is home to two of the world’s five known Blue Zones, where people enjoy better health and longevity.
Europe and North Africa are only about 500 miles apart, so in May, I found a 25-hour ferry that went from Italy to Tunisia. I figured I’d be able to really take in all the views from the water.
Here’s what the daylong boat journey across the Mediterranean was like.
Riding the ferry ended up costing about as much as flying would’ve.
I started my trip at the port of Genoa, Italy — I had the option to travel from France instead, but those tickets were more expensive.
I reserved my spot online using Ferryhopper and paid 137 euros, or about $151, for a bed in an all-women cabin for four.
Round-trip flights for the same route start at $330, so going both ways on the ferry costs about the same (just slightly cheaper).
However, carbon emissions from ferries are typically much lower than planes — although there are some variations on this depending on the specific type of diesel the ferry uses and how long it spends idling. The environment is important to me, and I felt better about the impact of my trip.
The check-in process was fairly simple.
My email confirmation told me to arrive at the ferry terminal four hours before departure for check-in. I’ve never done anything like this before, so I figured it was better not to risk being late.
When I arrived, though, the process was simple. I didn’t go through a security check, and I just had to wait in one line to get my passport stamped and pay an extra 12 euros as a departure fee.
After waiting a few hours in the lobby, I followed a crowd of people heading downstairs to board. Before getting our tickets checked, we crossed a parking lot in front of cars that were also waiting to drive onto the ferry.
It looked more like a cruise ship than a ferry.
The ship was huge. It reminded me much more of a cruise ship than any ferry I’ve ridden.
Inside, there was a restaurant, cafeteria, coffee shop, and souvenir shop.
I didn’t get the chance to use it, but there was even a pool.
I was surprised to see there was a pool on the ferry — that especially made it feel more like a cruise.
There wasn’t water in it during my journey, so I couldn’t go for a swim, but I strolled past it while checking out the boat.
Elevators whisked me to the seventh floor, where I found my room.
My cabin on the seventh floor of the ferry had a sea view.
There were two sets of bunk beds, and my mattress was comfortable. I had no trouble sleeping.
I shared the room with two women from Tunisia and one from Germany. They were all lovely and fun to talk to.
I was shocked that we had our own bathroom with a shower.
Inside the cabin, we even had access to a clean-looking bathroom with a well-functioning shower — something I’ve never experienced on a long train ride or plane.
The food on board was good quality, varied, and not too expensive.
There was a full-service restaurant with entrées, like pasta and grilled fish, for between 14 and 25 euros.
I was looking for something simpler and cheaper, though, so I went to the self-service cafeteria and picked up a plate of ravioli for 7.50 euros.
It was chewy and swimming in a tasty tomato-basil sauce. The food was definitely cruise-level good — not at all what I’d expect from a ferry.
The next morning, I also enjoyed a plate of scrambled eggs for 4.30 euros while looking out over the sea. The eggs were creamy and light.
The views of the Mediterranean were more than worth the journey.
Around sunset, I headed up to the top deck, which had benches anyone could sit on. I braved the whipping wind to watch us pull farther away from Genoa.
The trip lasted from about 3 p.m. on the day we left to 4 p.m. the next day — giving me plenty of time to watch the colors change from dusk to dark and dawn to daylight.
The next day, the water seemed to turn an entirely new shade of blue as we approached Tunis.
I’d definitely take this ferry again.
The ferry ported in Tunis, Tunisia.
When we arrived at the port, I went through customs and called a Bolt taxi to take me into the capital city. I spent the next two weeks exploring beaches, architecture, museums, ruins, and new foods.
This was the last stop of my trip, so I flew directly from Tunisia to Chicago and didn’t ride the ferry back. But I can’t wait to return to Tunisia.
If and when I do, I’ll definitely take the ferry again.
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