This as-told-to essay is based on a conversation with Matteo Pertoldi, a private chef and Italian restaurant owner. It has been edited for length and clarity.
Before becoming a chef, I was an engineer and architect. I came to Singapore in 2001 to work in construction. However, I realized that the job was too detached from people. If I designed a nice building, I’d see it in a magazine, but I was not in touch with my clients.
I’ve always loved the concept of hospitality, and cooking is a part of that. I always looked for that connection through food, even when studying to become an engineer in Paris.
I started a small supper club in Singapore that was well received. Eventually, I found myself cooking for people I didn’t know, and they enjoyed my work. I enjoyed the stress of wanting to please people — it was still a stress, but unlike my job, it felt like a positive challenge.
I started getting requests to cook for office parties or weddings or prepare cakes. My first break into the luxury sector was when a general manager of Panerai, an Italian luxury watch brand, asked for a recommendation from a friend, and they became my first client for corporate events.
After a couple of years of cooking on the side, I quit my engineering job and opened my restaurant in 2014 — ‘Atipico,’ which means “not typical” in Italian. I think that sums up my story.
Since then, I’ve cooked for private events, from small, intimate dinners for two people on a superyacht to big corporate events with 400 people. I’ve also had the pleasure of cooking overseas for a millionaire in Cambodia and cooking for the president of Singapore at an embassy event.
The bread and butter of fine dining
People generally love simple things when done well.
Whether I’m cooking in a house or at a dinner party, guests would often go nuts for something as basic as bread and butter. There’s something about serving piping hot bread with a quality slice of butter on the side — who doesn’t love that?
At events, guests would often say, “I love your spread, but the bread and cakes really stood out. I can’t find bread like this in Singapore. Where do you buy it?” And I’d explain that we make everything in-house.
I’ve always had a strong hand with pastries, bread, and other baked goods. Even as a kid, I developed a love for making desserts because I couldn’t use the stove. It’s something close to my heart, and I know it’s something special that people enjoy.
Fine dining is more about the overall experience than just the food, so I always prioritize freshness and careful presentation. Even something simple, like a slice of bread, can be amazing when the flavors are right. That is why I always assemble my food à la minute — prepared on the spot — in front of the customers to ensure they enjoy the freshest experience possible.
Guests love simple pasta
While we try to diversify our menus to suit every event for all the guests, I’ve always seen a strong appreciation for pasta, especially handmade ravioli.
I’ve found that wealthy clients, more than others, often value simple things. When they travel to places like the Amalfi Coast in Italy, they enjoy something as basic as seafood or vongole pasta without the need for fancy ingredients like truffles.
This surprised me, but in a good way, as it aligns with my belief that the simplest things can be the most enjoyable. Sometimes, they’ll ask for a dish they tried on holiday, like a rum baba from Italy, and it’s not about how complicated it is — it’s about executing it well.
Wealthy clients seek the experience, the flavors, and the feeling of being transported back to that moment. Italian food, which is often very simple, resonates with them.
I can serve caviar or truffle pasta if the dish calls for it, and I include these in my creative process when it feels right. But I don’t think anything is too simple to be served. For example, I might serve a dish with caviar and follow it with something simple. It doesn’t mean one is better; both dishes have their place.
When cooking for wealthy clients in their homes, I’ve found that most focus on the small details — how the table is set and how guests are welcomed.
Maintaining creativity and consistency has always been challenging, but I’ve enjoyed working with my clients because they’ve helped me grow and evolve my work. They push me to improve and fuel my creativity. The most valuable clients are those who truly understand my craft, and, in a way, we nourish each other’s experiences — it’s a mutual exchange.
Do you have a story to share about working around high-net-worth individuals? Email this reporter at [email protected].
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