‘Dark Feminine Energy’ Has Come for Our Makeup

As we’ve seen from the return of big hair, it-girlies are moving away from quiet luxury-inspired beauty, and are instead embracing maximalism, sensuality, and “dark feminine energy.”

Dark feminine energy (DFE) is, of course, more of a mindset. But according to users on Pinterest, whose 2024 festival trends data found that “dark feminine core” queries are rising ahead of spring and summer, the aesthetic consists of garments like elegant corset dresses and leather pants while corresponding glam features red wine nail colors and smokey brown eyeshadow.

Translation? It’s essentially an elevated take on goth glam, grunge, and rockstar girlfriend vibes with a sexy, sensual, and elegant edge, and it’s all over TikTok and Pinterest.

“Dark feminine makeup focuses on creating a sultry, sexy, confident, and mysterious look” Mat Wulff, professional makeup artist and Ulta Beauty Pro team member, tells Glamour, pointing to supermodel Gabbriette as a prime example. “It includes black and cool neutral tones, smokey eyes, contoured features, and bold lips to achieve this look.”

There’s also the original dark feminine energy pioneer, adds Flynn Pyykkonen, founder and CEO of Makeup By Flynn: 1990s-era Angelina Jolie. This certainly lends credence to the countless comparisons constantly made between Gabbriette and her DFE predecessor.

However Elyse Reneau, executive director of global beauty at Too Faced, believes Julia Fox is largely to thank for the trend. “What I love about it is that it really embraces the ‘the girls who get it, get it’ mindset,” Reneau says. “Makeup is about self-expression and when I look at the dark feminine trend, it’s serving: ‘I don’t care about the male gaze.’ This makeup look is about feeling powerful and redefining societal perceptions of femininity.”

That’s a key component as to why it’s trending now, adds MAC Cosmetics senior makeup artist Michelle Clark.

“We have seen a rise over the last year in coquette, strawberry, sugar plum fairy and clean girl makeup, which all include shades of pink, glowy skin and an element of girlie and uber feminine softness,” she explains. ”It seems now that there is a need to showcase the duality of feminine—that there is a light and a darkness to everything.”

It also serves as a new and creative way to embrace creativity and discover one’s own individuality through makeup, says Pyykkonen.

“Dark feminine beauty says, ‘I am powerful, I am who I am, and I am confident,’” she says. “It has become popular on beauty TikTok and I think more people are willing to try the new look because it’s something different and stands out, and more people want to stand out.”

It also doesn’t hurt that so many so many celebrities have started embracing the style. Clark points to Gabbriette, Alexa Demie, Rihanna, Megan Fox, Zoë Kravitz, and Lana Del Rey as “dark feminine energy icons,” while Pyykkonen similarly cites Halsey and Beyoncé.

As for how to get the look yourself? According to Clark, it requires eyeliner, lots of lash, and a deep lip, which can be matte or glossy. “It can be ’90s-esque because it’s sculpted everything, but less grunge more glam,” she says.

For a sensual smokey eye, Wulff suggests Natasha Denona’s Xenon Eyeshadow Palette. “Start by applying a matte eyeshadow in a dark, smoky shade like charcoal, deep brown, or greys to the eyelids. Blend the eyeshadow well for a grungy, lived-in look,” he says, while Reneau is a fan of Too Faced’s Born This Way Natural Nudes Mini Palette in Cold Smoulder Nudes.

You can also opt for a cat eye, says Clark, who suggests using a neutral eye palette like MAC’s Connect in Color Palette in Unfiltered Nudes to sculpt the eye first.

“Use cozy grey all over the lid to tint it and add depth using a fluffy brush,” she says. Then, line your inner and upper lid with MAC’s Colour Excess Liner in Sick Tat Bro, and use brown shadow to smudge out the lash line and give it more intensity. “Apply ample amount of MAC Stack Mascara, really build up the lash. Let it dry then add another stack.”

As for the complexion? Pyykkonen recommends a contour and sculpting palette like Jason Wu’s Sunlight Bronzer Trio to contour the face then sculpting your brows with Jason Wu’s Free Da Brow brow gel.

For lips, Reneau recommends finding a deep shade that’s low-maintenance. “My favorite is Lady Bold in the shade Upgrade,” she says. “It’s a delicious rich berry that you can tap on your lips for a bold pop of color instead of going the traditional full swipe method.

Clark agrees, recommending MAC’s MCXimal Lipsticks in the shades Whirl and Sin as her go-to dark shades. For a glossy finish, she suggests topping them off with an ample amount of MAC Lipglass in Clear.

Another option—and favorite for plenty DFE icons—is the ‘90s-inspired ombré lip. Recently re-popularized by Del Rey and her makeup artist Etienne Ortega, it’s actually easier to DIY than you’d think.

First, over-line your lips with lip liner to define the edges. (FWIW, Ortega uses his eponymous brand’s Soft Contour Lip Liner in “Cinnamon Girl” liner for Del Rey). From there, apply Ortega’s neutral-cool Agave Glow Color Stick to the rest of the lip, defining the edge after lipstick application. Top it off with super shiny Liquid Icon Hyper Gloss and you’re ready to go (to the annual coven meeting).

Feeling inspired? Start your dark feminine energy now and shop the essentials below.

Born This Way Natural Nudes Mini Palette in Cold Smoulder Nudes

$29 $24.65

Nordstrom

M·A·C Line & Lash Kit

$34

Nordstrom

Jason Wu Beauty Sunlight Bronzer

$20

Target

IT Brushes For ULTA Your Superheroes Full-Size Travel Makeup Brush Set

$51