In 2023, Lisa Warren, a freelance copywriter based in Brooklyn, began searching for an engagement ring in advance of an expected proposal. She wanted something minimalist but also striking.
Nothing felt quite right until she discovered bezel settings, a style that includes a continuous metal rim that holds a gemstone. She sent her then-boyfriend a short list of solitaire bezels that felt “clean and timeless, but not traditional,” she said.
He proposed in December 2023 with a hexagonal bezel-set diamond with a gold band. The gem at first glance looks round, but reveals a subtle geometry on closer inspection, she said. “I’ve grown to love how the bezel makes the gold feel like part of the design.”
An increasing number of the soon-to-be-betrothed have been gravitating toward bezel-set rings. Why? “Bezel-set diamonds sit right at the tension point between modern and vintage,” said Emily Carmeli, a cultural strategist and professor at Parsons School of Design in New York, “which is why they feel so relevant right now.” (The fact that Taylor Swift’s engagement ring features a bezel setting doesn’t hurt.)
Part of the appeal might also be the setting’s sturdiness, as compared with something like a four-prong. “I live in New York City, so I’m walking around, taking the subway and keeping my hands busy,” Ms. Warren said. “I feel more secure knowing the diamond is encased. I’d worry about a prong popping off.”
Many brides still want large gemstones, said Steph Mazuera, a jewelry designer in New York, and they want them to feel secure. “Having a big stone doesn’t mean you live a dainty life — you’re walking your dog, carrying groceries, doing chores,” she said. “A bezel lets you do all of that without worry.”
“The bezel feels classic, chic,” said Leigh Plessner, the chief executive and creative director of the jewelry brand Catbird.
Catbird introduced a bezel-set engagement ring about three years ago, and it is now a top-selling item. The style is growing more popular, in part, because it pairs well with other minimalist trends, including plain, chunky bands and simple silhouettes, Ms. Plessner said.
“Bezels feel elegant and intentional,” said Ashley Rendrag, a jewelry designer based in Philadelphia. “There’s no noise — just clean lines and a beautiful stone.”
TikTok has helped accelerate the trend, with designers making video demonstrations that have received high engagement. “Trends are constantly evolving, and technology has only sped things up,” said David Steinmetz, a jeweler in New York.
But there’s an element of old that adds to its popularity, too. Paige Rubin, a fashion historian and a founder of Taste Studio, which sells luxury vintage products, said the bezel style “aligns perfectly with Deco design — bold borders, metallics and graphic line work.” She noted that Art Deco jewelry became popular after World War I as a shift toward glamour and exuberance.
Bezels can be full, half, split or even floating — and if the bezel wall is thick enough, smaller stones can be set directly into it. “I love half-bezels — you get security plus more light entering the stone,” Ms. Rendrag said. “I’m also seeing tiered bezels that continue the line of the metal into the band.”
Mr. Steinmetz believes bezel rings have become more sought after for three reasons: personal expression, social media and cost. Because bezels use more metal, they allow for more distinctive shapes and customization. He also noted an uptick in lab-grown diamonds, which are less expensive than natural stones, freeing up budget for bolder designs that use more metal.
“Diamonds and sapphires are great for bezels because they’re hard,” Ms. Rendrag said. “I mostly use 14 karat gold and platinum — both very durable. Softer stones like opal or aquamarine can be bezel-set, but you have to be careful.”
Melissa Moynihan, a trend forecaster for brands, said that part of the bezel’s appeal came from its range. “What makes the bezel so versatile is its ability to adapt to different cuts,” she said.
More celebrities are opting for bezels as well. Taylor Swift’s old-mine diamond engagement ring has already led to “inspired by” requests.
“We’ve also recently seen Lily Collins’s emerald-cut in rose gold and Rihanna’s round diamond in yellow gold,” Ms. Moynihan said — both women’s rings feature bezel settings.
“Any celebrity that opts for a bezel-set ring is going to inspire others to choose one, too,” said Kindred Lubeck of Artifex Fine Jewelry in New York, who designed Ms. Swift’s ring. “We like something the more we see it.”
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