The phrase When it rains, it pours isn’t one you like to see applied to outbreaks of foodborne illness, yet here we are. The summer started with a diarrhea-causing parasite called Cyclospora cayetanensis, which infested iceberg lettuce. Then came news of Shiga toxin–producing bacteria in organic frozen berries, and a Salmonella outbreak linked to Whole Foods guacamole that eventually got traced to tainted jalapeños. (Pico de gallo, salsa fresca, and a variety of spicy dips have also been implicated.) Ricotta-style cheese was recalled for Listeria. Both Salmonella and E. coli were found in products from the aptly named Everything Sprouts. And 10,000 cases of lightly fried tofu were flagged for potential contamination with printing ink.
This flood of food-contamination events comes at just the time when our systems to prevent such outbreaks may be hobbled. Since last year, three cyclospora-research projects at the Department of Agriculture have lost either their funding or staffing, the CDC team that tracks the parasite’s genetics has nearly disappeared, and experienced government employees responsible for food safety have left their job or been fired.
The bureaucracy is crumbling, and the produce aisle is a mess. But let’s be fair: The status quo on foodborne illness was never very good. According to 2019 estimates from the CDC, Americans suffer (sometimes unaware) through at least 9.9 million bouts of foodborne illness each year; more than 50,000 people end up in the hospital, and about 1,000 die. Depending on how you measure outbreak numbers—whether by FDA investigations into foodborne illnesses, for instance, or by the number of food-product recalls—the 2026 statistics have been pretty much in line with recent history. How quickly we forget the Salmonella-dusted cucumbers of summer 2024 that sickened more than 500 souls in summer 2024. Or the cantaloupes that killed half a dozen people in 2023. Occasional salad-based catastrophes have been the norm for many years. Food-safety experts say that something on the order of 150 million meals of leafy greens are served in this country every day. Now as always, a very small proportion of them will make you ill.
But one of this summer’s outbreaks does suggest that our “very small proportion” might be growing into a slightly larger very small proportion. Although the jalapeño and berry outbreaks have had many doleful precedents of their size and scope, the cyclospora summer stands alone. Annual cases of its associated diarrheal disease, called cyclosporiasis, have been slowly increasing over time, from hundreds in the 2010s to a few thousand in the early 2020s. (This is, in part, due to faster diagnosis: One used to have to find the parasite’s oocysts under a microscope; now the fragments of its DNA can be identified in a rapid-PCR screening test.) This year, though, the CDC has confirmed 17,180 cases of the illness, and many thousands more suspected cases still need to be examined. State-level agencies have tallied more than 30,000 infections. “It’s just absolutely crazy,” Kalmia Kniel, an expert in microbial food safety at the University of Delaware and a former president of the International Association for Food Protection, told me. “It is completely overwhelming and insane that this happened.” I suppose it’s nice to know the sense of overwhelm afflicts experts too.
No one seems to know exactly how or why this year’s cyclosporiasis caseload got so big. The largest group of cases, which has been centered in the upper Midwest, has been linked to iceberg lettuce grown in Mexico. Kniel suspects that in Michigan, the parasite may have worked its way from the feces of the first infected people into the local water supply, spawning a secondary, local outbreak. Michael Osterholm, who runs the University of Minnesota’s Center for Infectious Disease Research and Policy and previously spent 15 years as the state’s head epidemiologist, told me that he’s seen no evidence to support the secondary-outbreak theory. Either way, some mystery remains as to how the parasite got into the food supply in Mexico. Taylor Farms, which recalled its iceberg lettuce in July, is “one of the leading produce companies in terms of food safety,” Kniel said. And yet here we are.
Perhaps the government could be doing more to resolve some of this uncertainty. On this point, though, expert opinions vary widely. Kniel said that, at least at first, the FDA and the CDC appeared to be posting information about the cyclospora situation more slowly than they had in past years. Steven Mandernach, the executive director of the Association of Food and Drug Officials and a former food-safety official in Iowa, told me that as far as he can tell, information has been coming out just as efficiently as ever. Osterholm believes that the sky is falling. “We have hit an all-time low, in my 50 years in public health, in our capacity to identify and respond to foodborne outbreaks,” he said, adding that the government’s slow response time on the cyclospora outbreak was nothing less than “public-health malpractice.” In an emailed statement, Grace Davis Jamison, a Department of Health and Human Services spokesperson, wrote, “Claims that HHS has lacked transparency overlook the extensive information FDA and CDC have shared as investigations progress including timely updates that help the public understand potential risks and make informed decisions.” She also said that no FDA investigators had been lost to staffing changes, and that the CDC laboratory that supports foodborne-outbreak investigations was likewise “unaffected.”
Perhaps this disagreement can be squared by acknowledging the failings of the past. The system has long been underfunded while needed changes were delayed, Barbara Kowalcyk, the director of George Washington University’s Institute for Food Safety and Nutrition Security, told me. The recent departures of experienced personnel, to retirements and layoffs, have made things only worse. “We had one hand tied behind our back before this administration happened, and now we have both hands tied,” she said. (How exactly this might translate into disease outbreaks in years ahead remains unclear.)
History suggests that few new investments in food safety come before a tragic outbreak of disease. “It was the 1993 Jack in the Box outbreak that really changed things at USDA,” Kowalcyk said, referring to the undercooked, contaminated hamburgers that killed four children who had eaten at the fast-food chain. A 2006 outbreak of E. coli in bagged spinach, which caused hundreds of illnesses and $200 million in lost spinach sales, helped inspire the passage of the Food Safety Modernization Act. Now we have the cyclospora summer. “I think that this is going to drive another paradigm shift,” Kowalcyk said.
Cyclosporiasis is, by the grace of God, a relatively gentle and self-limiting disease. Many people recover on their own within a few weeks. And for all of the tens of thousands of cases that have been registered in recent months (and the many more infections that were never diagnosed), just two deaths have been reported. Their loss is a tragedy; the economic devastation caused by falling lettuce prices, and the fact that many consumers have spent months in fear of eating leafy greens, is a shame. But given that this summer’s cyclospora plague stands among the largest foodborne-illness outbreaks in the nation’s history, these outcomes seem modest.
Consider this a solace and a warning: Our summer of contamination could have been much worse.
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