The Caledonian Sleeper is the UK’s most famous overnight train, with similar London-to-Scotland services dating back to 1873.
I had the chance to try it out on a work trip to Edinburgh, where I toured Emirates’ new Airbus A350.
Business Insider paid £285 (about $360) for a Club en-suite room, which includes a free breakfast plus access to the lounge and club car.
In addition to the convenience of waking up in the city center, I thought its luxurious offerings elevated it well above the typical train journey.
The food was delicious, the club car was relaxing, and the staff were welcoming.
The train benefits from modern sleeper cars with neat tartan designs and comfortable beds — but I struggled to get more than a couple hours of sleep.
Here’s what my journey was like.
I traveled to Edinburgh, but there are several Caledonian Sleeper routes throughout Scotland.
Going to Glasgow, the train splits at the junction town of Carstairs, while all the other routes split at Edinburgh. (That includes the Fort William route, which then goes through a different station in Glasgow.)
Unless you’ve booked a seat instead of a room, you won’t need to move during these splits — but you might wake up.
My journey started at Euston — arguably the worst of London’s train stations.
Euston has 16 platforms and is often very congested — but it was much quieter when I arrived around 9:30 p.m.
If you’re traveling further north than Edinburgh, you can board an hour earlier than this.
Thankfully, I didn’t have to hang around and could go straight to Platform 1.
The Caledonian Sleeper differs from most British passenger trains in using a locomotive similar to Amtrak.
It’s supposed to make the journey smoother for passengers, but I still struggled with the shakiness.
With a Club en-suite room, I was able to spend some time in the guest lounge.
The staff member at the desk was friendly and welcoming as he gave me the keycard for my room.
There were some complimentary drinks and snacks, or you could also buy meals.
I watched the news on TV and had a can of Irn-Bru, a soda that outsells Coca-Cola in Scotland.
Passengers to Edinburgh were called to board about 10:15 p.m.
The Caledonian Sleeper uses British Rail Mark 5 passenger carriages, which entered service in 2019, so they’re pretty modern.
My room wasn’t spacious — but was comfier than I expected.
Prices for a room start at £200 (about $250), but can be more expensive depending on when and where you’re traveling.
If you’re looking for more space, there is a double-bed en-suite option — but you’ll need to book well in advance.
Families could also book rooms with an interconnecting door. Tickets for children under 16 are slightly cheaper.
TicketOne adultTwo adultsSeat£54 / $68£108 / $137Classic£200 / $252£270 / $341Club en-suite£260 / $329£340 / $430Caledonian Double£380 / $481£445 / $563I was able to fit my duffel bag under the bed, but couples might struggle with more luggage.
The operator says each guest can have one piece of hand luggage and two larger items no bigger than 30cm x 70cm x 90cm.
Amenities, menus, chocolate, and a form for ordering breakfast were laid out on the bottom bunk.
After filling out the breakfast order form and choosing a time to eat, you hang it outside your door.
The amenity packs include a sleep mask and earplugs.
After briefly unpacking, I thought I’d check out the rest of the train.
It wasn’t easy to keep my balance in the tight corridors when the train started moving.
The club car was the highlight of my journey.
It’s reserved for those who booked a Club ensuite or Double room, but if there’s enough space, you might still be allowed in.
I was impressed with the staff, who were both friendly and laid-back.
I chose a seat facing the window and perused the menu.
I ordered a beer and the traditional Scottish dish of haggis, neeps, and tatties.
Haggis is made from sheep’s organs — but is tastier than it sounds!
I got back to my room around 11:15 p.m. and had a shower before getting into bed.
I’d never showered on a moving vehicle before, but I didn’t have any trouble doing my ablutions as the sleeper train slowly pulled away from Euston.
Charging outlets were plentiful, and there were convenient controls next to the beds.
The temperature control came in handy at night, while the host-call button, connected to a speaker above the window, can be used to order room service.
The upper bunk also has a light switch and one USB-A outlet.
I got into bed shortly after midnight — but was awake much longer.
The mattress and comforter were good quality, but I think I should’ve chosen the top bunk as this might’ve been less susceptible to vibrations and shakiness.
My noise-canceling headphones were helpful, but it was still a shaky journey.
Throughout the night, my attempts to sleep were disturbed at the four stations we stopped at, and I couldn’t help opening my eyes.
Once the train started again, the shakiness made me slide down or sideways in bed. Although headphones helped me block out the worst of the vibrations, they were still noticeable.
I don’t think I really fell asleep until around 4 a.m. Then, I woke up again as the train divided at Carstairs.
I got out of bed about 6:30 a.m. when breakfast arrived.
Like my dinner the previous night, my culinary expectations were exceeded — I thought it was a first-rate bacon roll.
I also got a carton of orange juice and sachets of ketchup and brown sauce.
There is supposed to be a table that folds out from underneath the sink. However, mine was missing.
I didn’t have to leave the train until nearly an hour after arriving in Edinburgh.
I had plenty of time to get dressed and pack my bag.
After arriving in Edinburgh about 7 a.m., almost an hour passed before a member of staff knocked on my door, shortly followed by an announcement asking passengers to leave.
Unlike air travel, I arrived right in the city center.
Edinburgh Waverley station is on the city’s main thoroughfare, Princes Street.
With a couple of spare hours, I was able to take in the view from Calton Hill, visit Greyfriars’ Kirkyard, and spit for good luck on the Heart of Midlothian mosaic on the Royal Mile.
I might not have had than a couple hours of sleep, but I found a second wind of energy from the beauty of the city — or maybe it was just the cold weather and pending work ahead.
The post I took the $360 Caledonian Sleeper train to Scotland. The 7 hours felt luxurious — but sleeping was a real challenge. appeared first on Business Insider.
