Cambridge and Oxford have been in a centuries-long competition as England’s top two universities — but I’ve always felt that seeing one is enough. The big question is: Which one?
For years, I’ve had it lodged in my mind that Cambridge was much better to visit than https://www.ricksteves.com/europe/england/oxford. More recently, I’ve been leaning Oxford. It just depends on what you’re looking for: Oxford is the more substantial town, with plenty to see and do. Cambridge, with lovely gardens along the River Cam, has a simpler and more charming atmosphere.
Both towns are only an hour’s train ride away from London, with Oxford to the west and Cambridge to the north, making each a fun and doable day trip. Cambridge, with fewer accommodations, works better as a side trip from London than as a stopover. Oxford can keep you busy sightseeing for a longer time and has plenty of good hotels — so it’s worth a longer stay. Oxford is also a stone’s throw from several other enticing English destinations: the Cotswolds, Stratford-upon-Avon, Warwick and Blenheim Palace. And good news for those who really can’t choose between England’s two great college towns: They’re linked by easy bus connections.
Despite their fierce rivalry — especially when it comes to rowing — Oxford and Cambridge have many similarities. Both schools use the “collegiate system,” where the colleges are mixed throughout the town; there’s no sense of one secluded campus, as is typical of many American universities. Both boast beautiful architecture and walkable town centers punctuated with convivial pubs and shops. And, of course, both have distinguished academic reputations known throughout the world.
Founded in the 11th century, the University of Oxford is the oldest university in the English-speaking world and is known for its academic achievements and stellar alumni. Its many graduates have influenced the course of Western civilization in the realms of science, literature, politics, philosophy and beyond (among its lauded graduates are Margaret Thatcher, Stephen Hawking and Oscar Wilde).
But that doesn’t mean that Oxford is stodgy. Although you may see professors in their traditional black robes striding across crisp lawns that mere students aren’t allowed to tread, this is a rambunctious college town with plenty of pubs, shopping streets and fun eateries that cater to a young crowd.
Of Oxford’s colleges, Christ Church is the largest and most prestigious (and, some think, most pretentious). It’s also the most popular stop for travelers — in part because of its historic fame, but mostly because scenes from the Harry Potter movies were filmed here.
Oxford is dotted with pilgrimage sights for fans of Middle-earth, Narnia and “Alice in Wonderland,” as J.R.R. Tolkien, C.S. Lewis, and Lewis Carroll are also alumni.
The sightseers’ Oxford is walkable and compact, and many of the streets in the center are pedestrian-only during the day. And there’s more than colleges and literary connections here. The town also has a fine Norman castle-fortress and a museum of fine arts and archaeology.
Historical Cambridge, though younger than Oxford, is the quintessential university town. Just like Oxford, it’s full of bookshops, grand residence halls and studious types biking to and from class. Originally founded in 1209 by some rebellious Oxford students, Cambridge now hosts 13,000 undergrads across 31 colleges, all with the same layout: green, monastic-type courtyards surrounded by chapels, libraries and housing.
The lively street in front of King’s College, called King’s Parade, is where the locals gather. Nearby you’ll find King’s College Chapel, England’s best example of Perpendicular Gothic architecture. When it was built, it had the largest single span of vaulted roof anywhere — 2,000 tons of incredible fan vaulting. For those in town when school’s in session, the evensong service at King’s College Chapel is a must.
For a little levity and probably more exercise than you really want, try renting one of the traditional flat-bottom boats called punts and pole yourself up and down the River Cam. For a more relaxed spin, join a tour with a student guide who does the punting for you. Then quench your thirst at the Eagle, a pub near King’s College where the discovery of the DNA double helix was announced in 1953. With a history so rich, a drink here practically qualifies as serious sightseeing.
If your stay in England is limited, you may not want to see both towns. I recommend visiting one or the other to save time for something completely different. Whether you opt for Oxford’s urban energy or Cambridge’s easygoing tranquility, both offer a heady mix of history, architecture and youthful fun.
This article is used with the permission of Rick Steves’ Europe. Rick Steves writes European guidebooks, hosts travel shows on public TV and radio and organizes European tours.
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