ROME — On a sunny Tuesday afternoon in the Trastevere neighborhood, Sophie Minchilli marveled at the number of people teeming in every piazza and restaurant. The guide and food tour company co-founder said that after the Easter holiday rush, April tends to be a quiet time in the city. Not this year. Peak tourist season in Rome is expanding, creeping into the early days of spring and stretching through the fall — good news for tour guides and bad news for price-sensitive travelers.
It was already tough to find a good budget hotel in the Italian capital. As of April 19, the city’s average nightly hotel rates are $299.61, which is up 14.4 percent year over year, according to CoStar, a commercial real estate data firm.
“A hundred euros has become more like a hostel sort of price,” Minchilli said. “Two hundred is more like a budget hotel.”
For a luxury hotel, travelers can expect to pay from $700 to $2,000 per night.
How much you actually spend on a room will vary greatly depending on when you visit, thanks to dynamic pricing. Places that are $60-a-night in September can cost you almost $400 in May. And no matter when you go, be ready to pay between $5 to $12 per person, per night, for Rome’s mandatory tourist tax. The rate fluctuates by accommodation type — the nicer the hotel, the higher the tax. This won’t be included in your room rate; you’ll be asked to pay in-person, in cash, on arrival.
I had worried that would mean my dream of finding a reasonable room this spring was dead. Was it still possible to book something safe, charming and affordable? I tested accommodations in three price categories to see what you could get for around $100, $200 and $300. Here’s what I learned.
$95 Lazy Gio Guest House
Hunting for hotels in the $100 territory was precarious. Most of my options came with reviews warning of dirty beds, unresponsive owners and unsafe neighborhoods. The Lazy Gio Guest Housewas an exception. Located in the residential Nomentano neighborhood, about a 15-minute walk from the northeastern edge of the lovely Villa Borghese park, the property had an “Excellent” 8.6 rating on Booking.com.
With my Booking.com “Genius” (its free loyalty program) discount, I paid $95 for a Classic Triple Room, which came with a queen and sofa bed. In the summer, a double room (similar to the triple but without the sofa) tends to range from $90 to $109 per night. An employee told me it can spike to $187 on Booking.com, but that the discounted “Genius” rate brings it down to about $140. They’ll also give customers a 10 percent discount off the Booking.com rate if they contact the property directly.
On a map, Lazy Gio looked pretty far from Rome’s most famous points of interest, but once I arrived at the building I realized I was happy to have the distance. I’d spent the morning frazzled by the crowds of the city center; Nomentano provided a refreshing reset from the bustle. I used the self-check-in instructions to let myself inside, found my room and was wowed by the high ceilings and huge window overlooking the leafy street. Like many other reviews had noted, the place was spotless.
Highlights: My room was quiet, clean and comfortable. The firm bed was a proper queen — not two mattresses pushed together, and not too firm either (both common occurrences in Europe). The bathroom was spacious, complete with the traditional Italian bidet, and the water pressure was sufficient.
Beyond the room, there was a communal kitchen area with free coffee and access to a big refrigerator and microwave. The Lazy Gio staff was quick to reply to questions on WhatsApp, and they even went out of their way buy an electrical adapter within 20 minutes of me asking if one was available to borrow.
And despite appearing out of the way, the guesthouse was still within a pleasant walk (or quick e-bike, if you don’t mind some cobblestone) from all the action. It took me about 30 minutes to meander the mile and a half to Trevi Fountain, passing many beautiful but less famous churches and monuments.
Lowlights: Guests are not allowed to use the building’s elevator, and the guesthouse is up three floors — making it inaccessible to travelers with mobility concerns and a hassle for check-in and check-out with luggage.
Did we get what we paid for? Yes. The rate felt like a steal because of the calm neighborhood, roomy bed and peaceful view.
$201 Hotel Emona Aquaeductus
In the Esquilino neighborhood, Hotel Emona Aquaeductus had appealed to me online because it looked like a funky boutique option. Its website noted it was a short walk to the Manzoni metro station and very close to a bus stop that could get you to the Vatican (about four miles away) or Rome’s main train station (about a half-mile).
I paid $182, with tax and fees, for a nonrefundable reservation for a small double room (it would have cost $201 for a refundable reservation). In the summer, the rate can peak around $245.
Depending on which route you take to reach the hotel, you’ll find that Esquilino has its highs and lows. Some parts of the neighborhood are incredibly picturesque with ancient artifacts, parks and beautiful architecture. Other parts are grittier, with graffiti-covered building facades and the occasional person sleeping in a doorway. I didn’t feel unsafe and never had any issues. Instead, I was mostly charmed by the area, and the hotel.
While my room was by far the smallest of my trip, it had an artsy vibe with a checkered floor and eclectic furniture, plus a view of the Nero Aqueduct, the arches of which extend down to Celio hill near the Colosseum. I could sightsee from my bed — which was cozy but made up of two mattresses pushed together.
Highlights: The garden-like entrance of the hotel was dreamy. You could take your breakfast on the patio, or rest in the shade after a long day of sightseeing (the real kind, not just from bed). It added to the hotel’s romantic character. So did the art-filled lobby.
Lowlights: Light sleepers, beware. From my room (No. 11, one floor up from the lobby), I could hear my neighbors come and go very clearly — so much so I questioned whether I’d shut my door (I had). I could also hear what sounded like the hum and rumbling of the elevator. The exterior walls and windows, however, did a solid job of keeping out street noise; it was only internal hotel noises that seeped through.
The hotel is also a little worn. Some scuffs on the walls here and there, an old stain on the comforter, a shower that flooded easily (again, not an uncommon European hotel experience).
Did we get what we paid for? Yes and no. I can see why some past guests were disappointed with their stay because of the neighborhood’s quirks and the hotel’s wear and tear. A number of past guests also felt the $15 buffet breakfast should have been included with the room rate or were unimpressed by the spread. I thought it was decent, with an array of fresh fruit, pastries and savory items. And you’re only a 15-minute walk from the famous Regoli Pasticceria, known for its whipped-cream-stuffed breakfast bun.
But I enjoyed my stay. The garden entryway had a spa-like effect each time I returned to the hotel; it instantly soothed me and was a gorgeous setting to sit and write postcards. The room was cozy, and the bathroom had amazing lighting and a great shower, even if it did overflow.
$303 Residenza Maritti
Residenza Maritti in the Monti district came with glowing reviews and the promise of views overlooking the Roman Forum. It was advertised as a family-owned property with a 300-year history, housed in an 18th century palace. I booked the Suite Superior Double room for $303 per night, which included breakfast. Rates for this room type can peak at $399, or drop to $140 in the offseason. Other smaller rooms in the hotel run cheaper.
I felt like I was in a movie as I rang the bell at Maritti’s massive wooden door, just across a snaking alleyway from the Forum. I was buzzed in, and a friendly staff member showed me to my room on the fourth floor (and gave me a detailed rundown of the neighborhood on a map). The room was marvelous: high, high ceilings; contemporary art from neighborhood painters; gauzy drapes framing windows overlooking Rome’s most famous ruins. There was a walk-through closet to a big bathroom, a large writing desk and a couch. Across the hall, there was a communal kitchen with coffee and tea.
From my huge, comfortable bed (all one mattress), I woke up with a view of a seagull perched on an ancient wall, then sat up to gaze at the chariot atop the Altare della Patria. On a Sunday morning, I first heard the sounds of a neighboring church choir singing, and a little later, a woman practicing opera. It all felt incredibly Italian.
Highlights: If the room doesn’t knock your socks off, the hotel’s rooftop will. I took an elevator to the top floor using a passcode, and my jaw dropped when I stepped outside. To one side, the ruddy tile rooftops of Monti were as picturesque as a post card. Across the street, the Forum. Furnished with tables and chairs, it’s a contender for best rooftop bar in Rome — just BYO vino and snacks.
Lowlights: Because you’re literally across the street from a major tourist attraction, you’re going to get some street noise from tourists walking down the alleyway (thankfully, it’s not a major thoroughfare).
As for the breakfast that was included with my room rate, the hotel has a partnership with a nearby restaurant where guests can exchange a voucher for a meal. The place feels like a tourist trap and does not match the elegance of the accommodations at all. I’d skip the “free” breakfast and go anywhere else.
Did we get what we paid for? Absolutely. I hated to leave this chic, historic apartment. What a view! What a rooftop! What a great bed! The residence felt like an oasis, but in minutes you could walk to the Colosseum, or to the banks of the Tiber River or to Monti’s many shops and restaurants.
The takeaway
This is not a city for booking last-minute, particularly if you’re hunting for a bargain. Many of the most promising options I came across during my search were small, adorable … and had been booked up an eternity ago. For the best shot at a decent budget option during peak season, plan far in advance, at least six months out. And for a better shot at a good value year-round, look beyond the center of Rome to more residential neighborhoods. Not only are they often cheaper, but they’re more peaceful, too.
My favorite stay was at the Residenza Maritti; the view and the bed were unbeatable. But I would have been plenty happy if I’d spent the entire trip at Lazy Gio’s, where I could enjoy a more relaxed side of Rome (and have more money to spend on food and activities — like eating more food).
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