This as-told-to essay is based on a conversation with Steven Polito, 49, a drag performer from New York with the stage name Hedda Lettuce. The following has been edited for length and clarity.
I am a native New Yorker who lives in Puerto Vallarta during the winter.
As a drag performer, it’s a great place to be — it’s a very LGBTQ+ friendly community here. There’s a lot of theater, a lot of cabaret, and great restaurants. It’s also walkable, which I love.
The moment you leave the house here, it’s like one big “hello.” That’s what’s really special about this place.
It’s why I come here — and why I’m still going to come back. Being part of a community means staying when things are tough.
There was burned-out car after burned-out car
I went to the gym at 8:30 a.m. and I was struck by how unusually quiet it was. Then, my friend at the gym told me the city is under attack by a cartel and I had to stay put.
When I left around 10:00 a.m., it was a very different scene.
Everyday life was juxtaposed against horrendous property damage. There was an older woman sweeping leaves in the street, while burned-out car after burned-out car was in flames.
My neighborhood was particularly hard-hit. One neighbor pointed out a burned out car that belonged to another neighbor who’s an Uber driver with two young children. That was the bulk of his income.
My nerves are shot a bit from the sensory overload of all of it. I’ve had some tough experiences, but never anything like this.
The strong community keeps Puerto Vallarta going
As I walked home from the gym, I saw a restaurant that I go to three, four times a week. They offered me coffee. Despite everything, they were trying to be good neighbors.
I saw people were cleaning up the burnt out cars: it’s neighbors taking care of neighbors.
I could go back to New York City, but we have to think in a less cavalier way. People who live here don’t have the luxury of getting up and going.
During COVID, I stayed in Puerto Vallarta the entire time instead of going back to the States. We all thought it was going to just crumble around us. But somehow, everyone found their way and part of that was through the community.
The strength of the community, that’s what’s so great about Puerto Vallarta.
I’ve experienced it firsthand and that’s what keeps it going. People persevere here.
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