Movie directors don’t typically appear at the end of their films, nor do composers at the conclusion of each performance of their compositions.
During fashion week, though, designers face their audience after the final model has looped around the runway. These bows can reveal much about how confident each designer feels or merely how they, the people whose job it is to dictate trends, actually dress themselves.
Some look serious, offering nothing as they dip for the crowd. Rarely, but sometimes, they appear stricken, as if convinced they just delivered a lifeless collection. Mostly, these designers smirk and wave with gratitude, as they walk quickly around the runway before slipping backstage, out of the critical eye once again. Here were some of the farewells from this season.
Haider Ackermann closed Tom Ford with a stern expression and a hand on his heart, a classic gesture of gratitude, before disappearing backstage.
Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski took more time at the Hermès show, charting an unhurried walk as she nodded, seemingly, at people she recognized in the audience.
Matthieu Blazy of Chanel sprinted. The camera pulled back, reflecting how small he was within the cavernous setting.
There was more jogging from Glenn Martens of Diesel. He reached out briefly near the end to shake the hand of Renzo Rosso, who runs Diesel’s parent company, OTB Group, paying respect to the man who cuts his checks.
At Jil Sander, we saw bashful behavior from Simone Bellotti, a designer known for his reticence. A slight nod, a turn away, another nod. Note: His coat was already on, as if he was ready to flee the premises.
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons appeared together. She gave a slight dip (one of the few that actually bowed) while he blew a swift kiss to the crowd.
Another twofer: Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, making their way to the guest of honor, the only one that appeared to matter, Madonna.
The schlumping sweatshirt, the shuffling walk, the Ringo Starr-esque peace sign — at Gucci, Demna demonstrated how you take a curtain call with nonchalance. The camera was expertly angled to capture the number of people with phones raised to get the shot.
Adrian Appiolaza of Moschino bundled together designer-farewell staples: the overemphasized jog, the dark sunglasses and the two-handed wave.
At Bottega Veneta, Louise Trotter made a beeline for an important guest: the company’s chief executive, Bartolomeo Rongone.
By now, the fashion crowd is well familiar with Yohji Yamamoto’s multistep bow. The hat comes off and then is returned with a rub of the brim; next comes the two-handed wave before he slips back into the darkness, where he’s most at home.
The fashion crowd was ready to read something profound in the finale cameo from Maximilian Davis at Ferragamo, where rumors have been swirling that he’ll soon head for the exit. He gave a grateful smirk and a quick shake of his clasped hands.
You could almost feel the mild embarrassment from Meryll Rogge as she tipped her head and pursed her lips. This was Ms. Rogge’s debut for Marni, and she hadn’t yet faced a crowd so large or judgmental.
At Balenciaga, Pierpaolo Piccioli went for the classic soak-it-up strut. He looped the runway at a modest pace, sunglasses on, smiling intermittently. A well-rehearsed walk from a man who has done it many times in his long career.
The best gesture of the season had to go to Jonathan Anderson at Dior. He gave a slight shrug, as if to say, Well, that’s all I’ve got, now you decide.
Videos © Courtesy of (in order of appearance): Tom Ford, Hermès, Chanel, Diesel, Jil Sander, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Moschino, Bottega Veneta, Yohji Yamamoto, Ferragamo, Marni, Balenciaga, and Dior.
Produced by Michael Beswetherick, Chevaz Clarke-Williams, Antonio de Luca, Minju Pak.
Jacob Gallagher is a Times reporter covering fashion and style.
The post The Art of the Fashion Farewell appeared first on New York Times.
