Just as I rounded the Cape of Punta Mita — the rugged peninsula that lies between the bustling resort world of Puerto Vallarta and the relaxed fishing villages to its north — my vacation in Mexico began.
Riviera Nayarit — where the Sierra Madre Occidental mountains meet the Pacific Ocean, and cliffs sweep down from the jungle to coves edged with pale sand — is vastly different from marquee tourist spots like Cancún or Cabo San Lucas. This budget-friendly string of coastal villages and palm-lined beaches has lured Mexican families for decades; increasingly, Americans and Canadians flee the cold to vacation here, as well. The coastline between Nuevo Vallarta and San Blas was named Riviera Nayarit in 2007, but it is specifically the 40-mile stretch along Highway 200 — from Sayulita, 25 miles north of Puerto Vallarta, to the working-class town of La Peñita de Jaltemba — that has become a bite-size playground for travelers. Here, visitors can bounce between oceanfront restaurants, surf hubs, beaches, whale sightings, bird trails and tianguis (open-air markets).
But come prepared. Leaving Puerto Vallarta International Airport without pesos can mean hand-gesturing apologies at tollbooths and restaurants. And, while a translation app is essential, learning the basics of ordering and paying goes a long way. I rented a small S.U.V. to navigate the cobblestone hairpin turns and settled into my base camp in Rincón de Guayabitos.
Travel-weary, I fell asleep as the sun set over Jaltemba Bay. In the morning, trills, whistles and squawks from chachalacas reminded me that I was in the tropics.
Sayulita
In Sayulita, the ocean breezes move through colorful bunting strung between the palm trees that line Avenida Revolución. In the town’s center — an easily navigable knot of low buildings painted yellow, pink hibiscus and pale blue — you can hear the ocean, softened by the village’s buzz.
Of all the beach towns in Riviera Nayarit, Sayulita probably draws the most tourists with its Southern California surf-town aesthetic and robust wellness scene. There are sunset turtle-release watches and wine tastings; in the evenings, salsa, rock, jazz, electronic and Latin urban music spill out from beachfront bars and the town square.
Sayulita is a surfer’s paradise; every January, the surfer Risa Mara Machuca hosts a father-daughter retreat. After bumping along the narrow stone streets lined with taco joints, sidewalk cafes and shops, I met up with her at Don Pedro’s Restaurant & Bar. Its giant thatched, ocean-facing palapa helped turn this quiet fishing spot into a popular surf town.
Ms. Machuca, who owns Surf It Out, charges $100 for an hour-and-a-half lesson. “Sayulita and San Pancho face north, and then you have the point where they meet the bay, which faces south,” she said. “So, throughout the year you get swells.” The sandy ocean floor off Sayulita, she added, “is really good for beginners.”
After sharing a hearty plate of chilaquiles, a tortilla-layered breakfast casserole, for just under 175 pesos, or about $10, we parted ways, and I walked out onto the cream-colored sand to watch a first-timer wobble on the forgiving waves.
The Casablanca Sayulita Hotel has a heated pool and sunset views for $170 a night.
San Pancho
As I drove into San Pancho on a humid morning, scooters stacked with goods in blue egg crates wove through traffic, as did two dogs, lured by free-falling food.
Tuesdays bring San Pancho’s village-wide tianguis, but most days you’re more likely to cross paths with scurrying chickens and locals sweeping storefronts than sightseers.
Village life in San Pancho, whose official name is San Francisco, is largely attuned to school hours and surf conditions, but the town of about 3,000 is also known for its galleries and live music. I strolled past bistros, pharmacies and produce stalls, along streets lushly canopied with foliage and arches of pink bougainvillea.
At the popular Dough Joe, I ordered an Americano and a mango-coconut doughnut (100 pesos), and listened to the soft thump of the surf behind the whir of blenders and chatting street vendors. (If you’re here for lunch, try Ikan Rest for bright, citrus-forward seafood like tuna ceviche, 240 pesos.)
At San Pancho’s community center, Entreamigos, I was told about the impact the region’s allure was having on the town. Project Tortuga, an environmental group that is based here, began efforts in the 1990s to protect endangered marine sea turtle populations that nest around the area. Today, hatchling releases take place all along Riviera Nayarit.
As I neared the water, the road imperceptibly turned to sand. Past a surf shack and sun loungers, on the northern stretch of San Pancho’s beach, a place built for sunsets, I looked back at the town, a jumble of primary colors interspersed with thatch.
A hotel room near the beach can be found for under $100 per night. For an amenity-rich experience, consider the modern Ciyé Hotel for around $200 per night and only steps from the beach.
Lo de Marcos
This tiny seaside pueblo, 10 miles from San Pancho, seems suspended in sea salt and sunlight. As travelers approach, they are met with clusters of palms: a softly shifting skyline. The village has a quiet grace that is perfect for relaxing, walking and dining, a reset.
The town recently commissioned a folk mural on the arch near the town square. After checking it out, find a spot on the nearly empty beach, and take in the expanse of sea, sand and sky. Then head to Restaurante Olivia for a fried whole snapper, crispy outside and tender inside (250 pesos).
For a treehouse-like experience, book a night at Casa Iteri for around $100.
Rincón de Guayabitos
On my last day in Guayabitos, I was drawn into Anahi’s restaurant by the smell of carne asada being grilled on the sidewalk.
Nineteen miles north of Lo de Marcos, Guayabitos is a bustling playground for Mexican families who come to relax in the calm waters of Jaltemba Bay, locally billed as the world’s largest natural swimming pool. There’s a lot to do along this curved beach: swimming, paddle boarding, kayaking, banana-boat rides, slurping raspados (shaved ice with syrup) and wandering through a crowded beachside corridor of souvenir stalls and food stands.
At Anahi’s, I dined under a painting of the Virgin Mary. Two marinated beef tacos were made better by a selection of sauces and a charred onion (85 pesos).
Early mornings belong to solo beachcombers and fishermen. Just after dawn, I wandered down to the beach and watched pangas pull up with dorado, tuna and snapper — an accidental feast for laughing gulls and brown pelicans.
Another way to experience Jaltemba Bay is a short excursion to nearby Coral Island for snorkeling (500 pesos) with Alicia’s Eco-Tours. Ask her about whale watching; late fall through early spring is prime time for humpback whales migrating from cold northern waters to the warm Mexican coast.
The median price for a beachfront hotel during the high season is about $125 per night, though considerably better deals can be found off the water. For quiet accommodations try the new Safiro Suites Rincon de Guayabitos for around $100 per night.
La Peñita
Just over a small river from Guayabitos lies the working-class town of La Peñita, where many of the locals who work in Riviera Nayarit live, play and shop. The town’s main street is lined with hardware stores, markets, bakeries and taco stands. But La Peñita’s true jewel is its Thursday tianguis, which is one of the largest in the region. It is filled with Huichol art and textiles, fresh produce and seafood, and all manner of personal and home goods. Eat while you stroll, as the market offers a dizzying array of street food like tamales, fried or baked empanadas, fresh pineapple with chile and lime, and sweet breads.
The town is roughly three times the size of Sayulita, which means its banking services and full-service grocery stores offer a budget-friendly way to establish a base camp and explore the coast. It also has some outstanding restaurants. If time permits, make your way to Dera’s Pizza in town for a pear and goat cheese pizza (200 pesos) and salads; the hanging vines and patio lights make for something nearly ineffable. Or at night, join La Peñita’s large expat community for cocktails and dinner at Hinde y Jaime’s or at Tiki’s Las Brisas, which overlooks the water.
At the Luxury Hotel Inn expect to spend around $100 per night.
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