When most people think of tiaras, they picture royalty or brides, not the military; however, the unique headpiece has a place in the history of the US armed forces.
At one time, three branches of the armed forces offered tiaras to servicewomen for formal events, and the Navy still permits them today, though spotting one in the wild is rare.
At least two vintage tiaras are housed in the Smithsonian Institution, rediscovered by museum staff over a decade ago during an extensive digital cataloging effort.
“It’s always a good day when you come upon something that’s not a little bit out of the ordinary,” said Natalie Elder, a military and society collections manager for the Smithsonian’s National Museum of American History who aided in the rediscovery of the museum’s two tiaras — one, a Marine Corps tiara and another from the Army Nurse Corps.
“I can’t remember if I knew that the military had tiaras at that point, but everybody got really excited about it.”
Military tiaras emerged in the 1950s, not long after women were first legally permitted to serve on active duty across the force. They were worn only at formal occasions, such as galas or state events.
The two in the Smithsonian’s collection each belonged to colonels, Mildred Clark of the Army Nurse Corps, and Marine Mary Bane, part of a small cohort of women rising to senior ranks at the time, Elder said. Though tiaras weren’t exactly common in American 1950s fashion, the ornamental headpieces signified the increasing importance of women’s permanent presence in the military, she added, while still emphasizing femininity, an important distinction at the time.
The American military designs, styled more closely as headbands than the ornate jeweled tiaras with which most people are familiar, reflect a real tiara style known as a bandeau. Like many traditional tiaras, the military’s featured botanical motifs — a laurel wreath for the Army and oak leaves for the Marine Corps — symbols of victory and strength.
The Marine Corps tiara was made of scarlet wool, with leaves embroidered in goldwork, a costly detail at the time, Elder said. Small combs on either side helped pin it in place, worn at a slight angle.
An exclusive American couturier who designed female Marine uniforms in the 1950s, Mainbocher, created the tiara specially for the colonel who oversaw the post-war organization of female Marines, who were overseen separately from males at the time.
Less is known about the Army’s tiara. The one in the Smithsonian’s collection appears to be similarly embroidered goldwork on navy-colored wool, stitched onto a thin headband.
The Corps banned tiaras in the 1970s, Elder said, followed by the Army around a decade later. The Navy held out until this century. The sea service outlawed the headpiece in 2015, but then it surprisingly reversed course a couple of years ago. Female sailors of any rank can wear it, though it’s not a required accessory.
“They’ve always been more of an elusive uniform item,” said Navy veteran and former MH-60R Seahawk pilot Jennifer Bennie, who picked up her vintage Navy tiara in a Virginia military surplus store a few years ago. The Navy’s tiara is larger than those of other services and carries the same eagle-over-shield with crossed anchors device found on Navy officer headgear, flanked by embroidered oak leaves that signify rank on black velvet.
Those looking to purchase a new military tiara could wait weeks or months for it, Bennie said. Prices aren’t listed on the Navy’s uniform website, though a representative for the manufacturer, Vanguard, told Business Insider that prices can range from $125 for tiaras for the lowest ranks to $900 for admirals. Each is made-to-order and embroidered by hand.
Vintage tiaras are tough to find. The scarcity of high-ranking servicewomen in the years between the 1950s and 1970s means few tiaras were made.
This past year, the hunt for a Navy tiara intensified. With 2025 marking the Navy’s 250th birthday, galas were bigger than ever, and more female sailors were scrambling to track down the unusual accessory. Bennie loaned hers out twice — and even wore it herself at a Navy ball with her active-duty husband and at civilian events, to the delight of fellow partygoers, she said.
Not many uniform items spark genuine delight, Bennie said. The tiara is a rare exception, and in a year of big Navy celebrations, it got its moment to shine.
“There’s very few things uniform-wise that females probably love to wear,” Bennie said. “And this is top of the list.”
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