I have a closet full of beautiful American and European designer clothes from when my husband was a diplomat and we were invited to dinners, cocktail parties and various official celebrations. They simply don’t make sense in my life any more, and they are taking up space, but how do I know if they are worth preserving? — Nina, Washington D.C.
The practice of buy and resell has become a kind of contemporary game when it comes to fashion, with etail sites like the RealReal, Vestiaire and Depop making wardrobe choices less a commitment than a calculation. But some clothes are too meaningful, or personal, to part with lightly, even if they are no longer worn or no longer fit (either your body or your lifestyle).
The good news is there are a lot of options beyond simply listing them for a stranger or recycling them. You can give your dresses and suits a second life that ensures they continue to have as much meaning as they had for you.
First, consider their value on all kinds of levels. There is, for example, monetary value held in a garment, which tends to depreciate over time, but which has to do with provenance (designer), style and whether the two represent a notable moment in the evolution of dress. There is the value of the textile. There is the history of the garment: Was it worn by a notable person or at a notable event? And then there is the personal history attached: the memories it contains and the meaning those memories have to the individual who wore it.
Amy Abrams, the owner of the Manhattan Vintage Show, pointed out that “some timeless pieces, like a Saint Laurent smoking suit, are consistently in demand, while others gain value due to current trends, which can drive up desirability and impact pricing.”
If you think the clothes in question have real historic worth, you could connect with a vintage dealer who might purchase the collection outright or sell it on consignment, for an assessment. Ms. Abrams offers a list of participants at Manhattan Vintage Show.
As to how that works, Cameron Silver, the owner of the OG vintage store Decades, regularly visits clients’ closets to help them assess what is inside. He said that when he looks at a piece, he will “research runway photos, editorial images and any examples of bold names who have worn the garment” to decide if it is best suited for the resale luxury market or, perhaps, a museum. And the museum does not have to be the Met.
Indeed, a number of academic institutions collect clothing that is less notable for its fashion pedigree than for what it represents about society. Smith College, for example, has a collection of everyday garments that tells the story of the evolution of women’s lives and that is about to go on display in the New-York Historical Society in New York. The curator, Kiki Smith, sees the stains and wear and tear reflected in a piece not as flaws but biographies writ in cloth.
Then there are charities like Dress for Success, which connects unemployed women with the tools necessary to enter the work force, including fashion that empowers them, and Housing Works, which also holds fashion shows to raise money for health-care services and shelter.
Any of the above options have the added benefit of being a sustainable choice, since the longer clothes stay in circulation, the less their impact on the environment. When it comes to style, that’s a good look in itself.
Your Style Questions, Answered
Every week on Open Thread, Vanessa will answer a reader’s fashion-related question, which you can send to her anytime via email or Twitter. Questions are edited and condensed.
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