If I could go time-travel and slap the tweezers out of my teenage hands, I would. But I can’t so I tried the next best thing: eyebrow microblading.
Like most ‘90s babies, I fell victim to the over plucked eyebrow trend pretty early on. I spent my days spent in front of the mirror, cleaning up what I deemed to be any strand of hair that looked out of place. Blame it on the plethora of celebrities following suit, my fear of playing into my insecurity off a hairy Latina à la Frida Kahlo unibrow, the damage was done. Alas, we know the story all too well of how fluffy, thick brows once again came back into style and took my confidence with it.
After years of meticulously applying makeup to my brows, I decided to seek a semi-permanent fix to my dilemma with microblading. Of course, swiping my eyebrows with product isn’t exactly the biggest problem in the world, but if there was a way to skip the step altogether, why not try it out?
It’s now been exactly two weeks since I received the treatment, and though the final results are still TBD, I’m already blown away by the difference it’s made. If you’re considering making an eyebrow microblading appointment, here’s what to know before you go.
Make sure you understand exactly what microblading is and what it isn’t.
I went into my appointment with a very basic surface level knowledge about microblading. I was fortunate enough to have a total pro walk me through every step upon arrival, but I urge you to learn from my mistake and do your research beforehand to avoid any unfortunate situation. Not only will it ensure you know exactly what to expect, but it will also make you feel much more comfortable before, during, and after your service.
As for what microblading actually is? “Microblading is a technique where fine lines are scratched into the surface of the skin, and pigment embedded,” May Lin, senior specialist at EverTrue Salon in New York City, tells Glamour. “The strokes accurately replicate hair (as in a brow or hairline).” What’s more, while microblading does not have the same permanency as a tattoo, the semi-permanent treatment does “meet the definition of a tattoo in that pigment is embedded in the skin,” Lin clarifies.
Your skin type can impact your results.
I can pass for a combination skin on a good day, but have extremely oily skin on my bad days. During my appointment, I learned this could affect my microblading results.
“I think of it like painting; some paper types hold the paint exactly how I lay it down, some paper lets the paint bleed and smear,” Caitlin Cartwright, a cosmetic tattooer who specializes in microblading in Ohio, explains. “Drier skin types hold microblading hair strokes much crisper than skin with a lot of natural oil. Think of it like this: oil is always pushing my work out, dry skin drinks it in.”
Microblading can still be performed on any kind of skin, your skin type simply affects how long results last. In my oily skin’s case, it might be “less effective in holding pigment than dry skin,” so I was well aware of what a realistic result would look like. Clients with oily skin might need more frequent touch-ups (think: every six months) for maintenance. Other factors that affect results include lifestyle, like how much time is spent under the sun, color of pigment, and medical conditions.
Microblading can cost anywhere between $500 to over $1000.
At EverTrue, the price for their microblading starts at $550 for an appointment with one of their brow specialists. This also includes the perfecting session that comes after the initial treatment. However, prices begin to go up depending on your specialists. May, who is listed as a senior specialist, charges $850 while an appointment with the salon’s master therapist, Michelle Wu costs $1,200.
When it comes to your face, I’d rather pay for a high-quality service with talented artists than spend less somewhere else. If you see microblading being offered at a significantly cheaper price, it’s more than likely telling of the kind of treatment and care you’ll receive. After all, you’re paying for someone’s time, skill, specific supplies and the semi-permanent tattoo on your face.
Bringing in brow “inspo” photos can help, but it’s impossible to match them exactly.
Eyebrows frame your face, so it’s essential to understand that what works on someone else doesn’t necessarily translate to the best results for your features. “I am all about the best result unique for the individual,” says Cartwright, adding that she likes to start using an inked mapping string to find the brow bone. “We pick their pigment color together that factors in their natural brow color, hair color and desired result,” she adds.
Your specialist should show you an outline before you start.
My microblading session lasted around two hours, as it allowed my artist to use the hour before we began to create an outline of my chosen brow shape. During this process, Lin drew each hair stroke-by-stroke with a dark brow marker. When she finished, I was able to see more or less where my eyebrow would begin and end, the brow arch, and the approximate thickness. My specialist also asked me if there was anything I wanted to change, plus what I liked and disliked, which was extremely helpful and made me feel much more confident.
Bringing in browinspo from the internet might not be the most helpful, but I did make sure to do was look at the previous work my artist had in their portfolio to determine whether their style aligns with the kind of microblading I wanted. Like tattooing, microblading is a kind of art form, and each artist offers something different.
Microblading isn’t painless, but it shouldn’t hurt.
I’ve never been a fan of needles, and the thought of having needles so close to my eyes was stressful. Fortunately, my practitioner applied a numbing cream prior to the procedure and allowed time for it to set and do its thing before getting started. Most artists opt to numb the area, which is something worth considering prior to scheduling your appointment.
My procedure went off without a hitch. I’d describe the feeling as being a bit uncomfortable, if anything. As for the pain itself, it feels like a tiny scratch, with a continuing tingling sensation throughout the day after (since the numbing cream wears off).
Your eyebrows will look dark for the first few days.
Like, really dark. “Microblading starts out much bigger and darker,” Cartwright notes of the step. “They also continue to darken for a few days before they begin to shed skin.” For the first four days I had as close to caterpillar eyebrows as you could imagine. My brows started to darken during the next six hours after my appointment, and when I woke up the next day they were as bold as ever.
Even though my artist had warned me about this beforehand, it’s still a bit (or very) jarring to see your eyebrows look so bold, while having no ability to fix it until they start to peel. It’s possible that this might bother some to the extent where they’d rather stay home to avoid running into people (like the cute barista you’ve been plotting to make a move to for weeks), which is understandable! My advice? Own it and embrace your dark eyebrows before they begin to fade. And if nothing else, a cute beanie can do wonders.
It takes about six weeks to fully heal, and results last around two years.
You’ll see results immediately, but that won’t be what it will look like at the end of the road. Lin shared that the entire healing process takes 6-8 weeks. Two weeks into my process, my eyebrows are significantly lighter than where we started off. The pigment is also slowly reappearing in areas where it peeled.
As for how long your microblading will last? It depends on each person. “I let each individual know what to expect based on their skin type and lifestyle,” says Cartwright. “Lighter pigments fade faster. Sun exposure without SPF will fade and discolor your brows.”
You can’t get your brows wet for two weeks, and your skincare and makeup will have to be adjusted.
Your brows will take about two weeks to heal after microblading, and in the first 24 hours following your session you should not get them wet (that includes sweat). After-care will depend on your artist however, with some preferring a “dry” solution and others “wet.” In my case, Lin provided me with an aftercare cream to use for a week after the treatment, as it would protect the healing brow against environmental irritants.
For two weeks after treatment, you should also avoid sun exposure, saunas, excessive sweating, tanning, and makeup application on the treatment area. And when your brows begin to start peeling, remember not to pick at them as it will interfere with brow healing and color retention.
Your skin care and makeup routines will look different for a while, too. Retinol, for example, is one product you’ll have to avoid for the first couple of weeks. “Retinol, especially at higher strengths, makes skin sensitive,” says Lin, noting that she suggests ditching “high strengths of retinol two weeks before and after microblading to reduce discomfort from skin irritation.”
As for face makeup like foundation or concealer, you’ll have to be extremely careful as to not mix in some of the product with your eyebrows. “Applying makeup on skin that is still healing might lead to irritation and infection, and interfere with the healing process,” says Lin. During this time, it’s probably easier to skip the makeup altogether, but if you find yourself reaching for it anyway, use a Q-tip or makeup sponge to carefully apply around the area.
A follow-up appointment is not only recommended, it’s the best shot at achieving your desired results.
EverTrue offers a “perfecting session” for up to eight weeks after the procedure so clients can address any adjustments they’d like to make to their shape and color post-healing.
“When the client returns for the Perfecting Session, we can assess the results and adjust the treatment as necessary,” Lin says. “We fill in gaps, make minor adjustments to shape and color, and go over existing strokes so results last 6-18 months.” Cartwright echoes the importance of a second session, adding, “I do not recommend seeing any cosmetic tattoo artist that does not include a second session to check on the results. The heal is so important in this work.”
Microblading isn’t for everyone.
You have options! Perhaps you’ve read this and decided that microblading isn’t something you want to try, but still want to give your brows a bit of oomph. Well, it’s 2022, and there are tons of procedures you can look into that will be better suited for you. Nowadays there are treatments such as eyebrow tinting, brow lamination, and so much more.
“Brow Lamination is really great for all hair types, if your brows are thick it will help with smoothing and taming,” says René de la Garza, celebrity brow artist and founder of Brow Down Studio. “If your brows are thin, brow lamination can give the illusion of a thicker fuller brows. And if your brows grow in different directions, it will help by setting them in one uniform way.”
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